FAQs

Many penetrating stains work well for staining Okoume and are compatible with epoxy. We recommend staining the seats on our Wherry to contrast with hulls. It is always important to test a stain prior to applying it to any of your boat parts. To do this, find a couple scraps of wood. Stain one of them and let the stain dry thoroughly. Next, mix some epoxy and spread it on the surface of the stained wood and clamp your second piece of wood to it. Allow the epoxy to cure fully and pry the two pieces apart. If in this process you tear wood fibers, you can be assured that the stain is compatible.
There are some concerns with staining panels of boats. In order for stain to take to the wood it must be applied to bare wood, prior to epoxy. This means staining before you begin construction of your boat. When a boat is wired together and the seams glued, all of the chines are rounded to help the fiberglass cloth lay flat against the boat. During the sanding of these seams, it is likely you will sand through the stain that was applied to the panels along the seams. The result is lighter stripes running the length of your boat along the seams. Going over these areas with stain and getting a good color match can be difficult. Because of this reality we do not recommend staining hull or deck panels of multi-paneled boats.

John Lockwood designs Pygmies for the rigors of saltwater expeditions and rocky shore landings. As strong as fiberglass, yet 30% lighter, your Pygmy will give you a lifetime of use and adventure. The upkeep is simple:

• Epoxy needs protection from prolonged exposure to ultra-violet rays. After completion, coat your boat with high quality marine spar varnish (with UV inhibitors). We recommend Z-Spar’s “Flagship” or System Three’s Spar Urethane Varnish. Two or three coats do the job. Depending on use, re-varnish in 3 to 7 years.
• Frequently dragging your boat full of camping gear onto rocky shores will cause abrasion along the keel line. (Similarly, fiberglass hulls also wear through their gel coat and into the glass at the sharp ends of the keel line when driven up on beaches.) Our construction manuals direct you to lay a “sacrificial” layer of glass tape OVER the already glassed keel. This protects the hull’s glass job. The tape strip takes all the wear and tear. Every 2 to 5 years, depending on use, flip your boat over, sand the keel and epoxy on a new sacrificial strip

Yes! We do, but it is not necessary to take a class in order to build one of our boats. Nonetheless, our classes have been very popular and fill quickly. You can check-out a schedule here: boat building classes.

Kayaks are a highly personal craft. It needs to fit your frame, intended uses and your aesthetics. These essential factors should influence your decision: your height, weight, and shoe size, the intended uses of your boat, and your family structure (single, couple, kids, dogs…). Start by reviewing our All Boats and Specs and our Boat Reviews pages.

Precision pre-cut BS-1088 Okoume plywood panels (all 4mm)

• Cockpit coamings
• All epoxy and fiberglass cloth for inside and outside of the hull and over the deck
• Fiberglass tape
• Wire
• Squeegee
• Dental syringes
• Latex gloves
• Wood flour
• Calibrated Pumps
• Stirring sticks
• Steel push pins
• Temporary frames
• 2-part seat
• Keeper’s® footbraces
• Illustrated construction manual

Depending on use and where you store your boat, you will need to re-varnish every few years (boats stored inside will not need fresh varnish nearly as often as boats stored outside).

You will need a dry space large enough to comfortably move around your boat. Folks most often use garages and basements. Carports, decks, and porches work well in warm weather. Apartment living rooms covered with drop clothes will do. Just make sure your completed boat will extract out of a window or door.